GENERATOR

 

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 20:10:01 -0500

From: John Massey <john.massey#tcs.wap.org>

Subject: GMC: ONAN Generator Output

I have a 1977 Royale and we are finally back at home after being out for about three months. I was checking out my batteries and decided that while the weather was nice I'd run the generator for an hour which I do each month. I rarely use it since generally have shore power.

While it was running I decided to check its output with my digital voltmeter and got a disturbing reading. With a 1500 watt load it was putting

out 145 V ac, removing the load, it went to 155 V ac. Checked the meter against the shore power and it read 115V ac. What gives?

During the past months I've used the generator several times to power the TV and electric heater with no problem.

I've got the GMC in August and one of the things I do not have is an Onan owners manual.

John Massey

 

From: Ralph Edelbach <edelbach#tcnj.edu>

To: gmcmotorhome#mailinglists.org <gmcmotorhome#mailinglists.org>

Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:52 AM

Subject: GMC: Onan tips and reading lamps??

>When we bought our '74 Glacier in January, the 4 KW Onan started from both inside control panel and by using the start switch on the unit. A few weeks ago I tried and didn't have any luck. Same problem yesterday.

>

>Symptoms: Upon depressing the start switch on the unit, I get a few seconds of a soft, dull clicking sounds which stops even though the start switch is still depressed. If the switch is released and pressed for a second time or more, the noise occurs again. After charging the battery last night, it is doing the same thing this morning.

>

>Since I'm planning on taking it to the vintage sports car races at Summit Point, West Virginia in a few weeks and they have no hookups, I'd like to have power if possible. If not, I'm still going but will have to rough-it a bit more. Just like the "goode olde days."

>

>Looking at the GMC maintenance manual, I see how to checkout the "no cranking" condition by jumping various terminals on the PC board and I will do that in the few days but I assume the noise is either the fuel pump starting and then shutting off since the carb float chamber is probably full or the fuel solenoid valve opening as I'm attempting to crank the unit.

>

>Any other "hot" tips to look at if the terminal jumping doesn't work??

Thanks for the info.

>

Ralph..........First thing, check the battery terminals and make sure they're tight. Check and make sure you've got a good ground. It could be as simple as this! Take a look at the small high intensity reading lamps in the stores or even garage sales. They all have a transformer that reduces 110 to 12 volts. Throw the transformer and base away and mount the rest of the lamp anywhere you need it. They even come in different colors to co-ordinate with your GMC.

Jim Davis sivad#harborside.com

 

Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 21:40:55 -0500

From: "Russ Bethel" <rbethel#stic.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan tips and reading lamps??

Had a similar situation today. Found that I was not getting steady voltage from the battery to the Onan. I replaced the battery cable to the Onan and everything was fine as far as cranking. I could not get it to start though and found that the points had corroded. After changing the points and condenser everything worked fine.

Russ Bethel

1976 Glenbrook

 

Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 16:17:22 -0400

From: "Ralph D. Edelbach" <edelbach#tcnj.edu>

Subject: GMC: Onan starter

I discovered that the problem with my 4000 Watt Onan is that the heavy lead coming out of the solenoid and going through the starter case is broken. When I disconnected it to clean the terminals, it came off in my hand. Just the connector to attach the line to the solenoid and about 1 inch of line. I'm going to try to get the starter off with out taking too much off the engine but if I remember correctly, the manual says to remove a bunch of stuff. At least it isn't a major engine problem.

Strange but the wire broke with the coach sitting in my drive-way. I started the Onan a few times after buying it in January but haven't had it on the road except for a 10-mile trip. Guess it was just time for the wire to break. Better in my driveway than on a long trip.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 16:37:07 EDT

From: RickStapls <RickStapls#aol.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan starter

Ralph,

Must be a Bosch starter. Used to see same thing on VW Beetles: wire into

starter just corrodes away. Worst of all, the heavy braided copper wire is spot welded to the field coils inside the starter. Time for a rebuilt starter. I'm gonna check mine and apply grease or WD40 or something to the wire.

Rick Staples

-------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 13:05:43 -0400

From: Ralph Edelbach <edelbach#tcnj.edu>

Subject: GMC: Onan starter

Thanks to anyone who might be working to provide me with some information about my Onan 4KW starter problem but I just found a new unit at Golby's for $201 plus shipping so I'm just glad that I didn't have to junk the whole unit. A local Onan distributor could get one from the warehouse in a week or so but their price was $223 plus shipping.

Thanks again.

----------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 22:34:18 -0500

From: "William D. Minor" <wdminor#earthlink.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: synthetic oil in Onan

I use Castrol Syntec in my 4.0 Onan. It definitely cranks better and appears to run cooler and with more power. I also added a flap on the lower to prevent hot air from recirculating while camped to help with the cooling.

Bill Minor

'73 GMC 230 Sequoia

---------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 17:40:07 -0600

From: Robert Shimanek <robshim#up.net>

Subject: GMC: ONAN 6KW Starting Problem

Acuating the rocker switch at the Generator Control Panel or remote switch inside the coach

Problem is as follows:

1. Push to start switch, engine tries to fire (like on one cylinder) and starter drops out immediately. This continues to repeat the cycle until you release the switch.

2. Jumped terminals 9 & 11 on generator terminal board and engine ran normally indicating K2 relay contacts are defective.

3. Checked K2 relay operation on the bench by applying 12 volts to relay coil. Relay operated normally. Checked the contacts for continuity which were OK no resistance.

4. Also checked K2 relay operation and continuity which were also OK.

5. Checked for operation fuel pump, electric choke, and fuel solenoid which were OK.

6. Needed points, condensor, plug wires and plugs so I changed them even though the engine ran when terminals 9 & ll were jumped.

7. Connected wire from battery ground to starter solenoid. Engine started and operated normally. Noted that the K2 & K3 relays operated normally.

8. Checked Alternator DC voltage output which was 14.1 to 14.2 which would cause K2 to operate and keep K3 relay closed for continued engine operation.

9. Checked the generator board for PC board cracks and continuity along with the wiring on the board.

10. I hate to replace the board for $120.00, if I am missing something.

11. Little background that I had last weekend. Before I left my home I checked the generator for operation being that the coach is stored inside for the winter months. Engine and generator operated normally.

12. I traveled approximately 350 miles to my destination in lower Michigan. When I went to start the generator from the remote switch in the coach--the unit would not start I pulled the generator out and it started from the generator panel & ran normally after a couple of attempts. This happed once before a couple of years ago.

13. I kept the unit operating for approximately 4 hours with the top air conditioner operating. (98 degrees outside)

14. When I left the parking lot I had my wife shut down the unit from the remote switch. She said all indications on the panel after holding down the switch in the stop position that the unit was shut down. She has accomplished this task many times with no previous problems.

15. However, when I arrived at the campsite I noticed the generator was operating again so she shut it down again as before.

16. Now during the night 2:30AM a loud banging was coming from under the rear of the coach near the generator (That was a quick wakeup). To my amaze the generator was trying to start itself. So I immediately hit the remote stop switch in the coach and the unit stopped trying to start.

17. Looking for suggestions from the experts to correct this problem.

Maybe the problem is in front of me and I can't see.

Will appreciate your help

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 23:12:31 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: ONAN 6KW Starting Problem

Bob,

I am impressed that you followed such a logical testing procedure, most people would stop and fork out the bucks for the board without further investigation. In this situation, with the unit starting OK from the side, it looks like the PC board may be working. If you have no operation on the remote, the chassis ground to generator, wires to the remote, or the molex connector may have problems. I would run a 4 ga. wire to ground then to the generator block first. Then check continuety of each wire to the remote circuit.

Let me know what fixes it.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.comRobert Shimanek wrote:

--------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 May 1998 15:29:39 -0600

From: Robert Shimanek <robshim#up.net>

Subject: GMC: To correct Onan varied voltage problem.

1. Before making adjustments run the generator about 15 minutes under a light load to reach normal temperatures.

2. Engine speed determines the output voltage and current frequency of the generator.

3. Increasing the speed increases the voltage and frequency and vice versa.

4. An accurate voltmeter should be connected to the generator output. I used one of the receptacles in the motorhome to check the voltages.

5. A binding in the bearings of the governor shaft, in the ball joint or in the carburetor throttle assembly will cause erratic governor action or alternate increase or decrease in speed hunting. A lean carburetor adjustment may also cause hunting. Springs have a tendency to lose their calibrated tension through fatigue after long usage. If all governor and carburetor adjustments are properly made and the governor action is still erratic, replacing the spring with a new one and resetting the adjustments will usually correct the problem.

6. Speed Adjustment----With the warmed up unit operating at no load, adjust the tension of the governor spring. This is located on top of the unit and is connected to an arm with small drilled holes near the shaft.(You will see a spring with an adjustment nut. This adjusting nut is turned to obtain a voltage and speed reading within limits.)

7. Sensitivity Adjustment---Check the voltage with no load and with a load.

8. Adjust the sensitivity to give the closest regulation (least speed and voltage difference between no load and full load) without causing a hunting condition.

9. To increase the sensitivity (closer regulation), shift the spring toward the governor shaft. That may be one hole closer to the shaft.

10. An adjustment for too much sensitivity will cause alternate increase and decrease of engine speed (hunting).

11. To decrease sensitivity, shift the spring toward the outer end of the governor arm. Too little sensitivity will result in too much difference in speed between no load and full load conditions.

12. Now any change in the sensitivity adjustment usually requires a corresponding spring (spring tension) adjustment.

VOLTAGE FOR 120 VOLT 1 PHASE 2 WIRE

Maximum Voltage No-Load-----126 VOLTS

Minimum Voltage Full Load--110 VOLTS

Hope this helps you out.

Bob

------------------------------

 

Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 18:53:54 EDT

From: davegreenberg1#juno.com (David L. Greenberg)

Subject: GMC: Battery Boost switch

Be careful. Early models didn't have a rocker switch for the battery boost and sometimes the switch is left in the boost position or on. GM later changed this to a rocker switch. You only use this to put all batteries together to help start your engine or Onan. Not to be used (and unnecessary) while the engine is running.

Dave

David Lee Greenberg

------------------------------------

 

Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 21:21:23 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: 4000w onan generator

Robert Teed wrote:

>

> I know nothing about My Generator...When I open the door to the Generator I see an old Battery with cables and a green steel box with what appears to be a bent wire handle with the word " Release " and an arrow below it. Sliding this handle to the right does what? Should this allow the steel box to "open" from the front? Should the steel box "Slide" out? How do I access the Generator motor? I know I can get all this info from Cinnabar but I'm on a tight budget right now.

> Thanks,

> Rob Teed

> 74 Painted Desert

Rob,

Well, you are on the right track, you have eyed that green thing in the back correctly as your generator. You would probably do well to get the factory service manual which will carry you further in understanding the workings of the generator. The manual is available through Cinnabar.

As far as the operation of your 4K genny, does it start? If it starts, then shuts down, check the oils located on the lower left inside corner of the unit as you look at it. This would be the unit detecting a low oil situation and shutting the ignition off as protection. If it tries to start but will not catch, jump pins 9 and 11 on the PC board. This bypasses the operation of the PC board, if it now starts you have electrical woes. If not, pull off the rubber tube going to the carb. and spray a little starting fluid down its throat. If it sputters and tries to start, your trouble is fuel related.

This will get you started, if you need to go further, give me a call at work 1-877-275-4462.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

-----------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:41:48 -0700

From: "Heinz Wittenbecher" <heinz#bytedesigns.com>

Subject: GMC: Power Plant repair/replacement

I havn't dug into it yet, but the last time I started (attempted to start) the GenSet it seemed to want to run away and I stopped it (via the stop button). Let it sit for a bit and then started it again. Seemed more regular but back fired. However, the AC never came on.

Anyone experienced anything similar?

My GenSet is (was) due for a checkup/overhaul anyways but I was hoping to do

it a little later.

Has anyone replaced the original GenSet in a drawer with another set? I'd like to find something quieter but I don't want to give up space. I have a large coach battery installed behind the GenSet and would hate to loose it. I currently have a 6kw but could probably do with a 4kw as I only run one 15amp AC and 2 30 amp chargers which draw less than 15 amps together.

Also considering Solar, but that'll be another project :-)

Heinz

'76 Transmode

 

Yes, When we purchased our 73, 10 years ago, the original genset was missing, after removing the tray frame and installing a shelf, we mounted an ONAN Emerald set, problems with this are:

cooling air flow has to be allowed for, exhaust piping has to be

custom built, but that's fairly easy to do. (simple once you decide

on how and where to hang.)

The Emerald has been a very reliable set, easy to service. Pulled it out and sent it to the shop for a complete check and service in Nov, didn't even have to leave the coach. If I had to do it over again, I would go with the new Marquis set a little more powerful and more silent. The Emerald in not noisy, but the Marquis is supposed to be better.

 

Heinz:

When you shut your generator off, the throttle goes to full open and accumulates gas in the cylinders and muffler. When you start it too soon after shutting down, the back fire occurs due to those fumes being ignited.

As for going into overspeed I believe your governor is not working properly or it could be sticking due to rust in the connections. Move the throttle rod connected to the governor and see if it moves freely. Also check the spring for tension.

The lack of AC--your generator's brushes maybe worn or not making contact, wires could be broken, blown fuse or circuit breaker open, defective bridge rectifier.

This may be dumb question but may be overlooked when you don't have AC. Is your external electrical power cord plug connected to the electrical jack located in the cord storage compartment?

Bob

-------------------------------

 

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 22:44:06 -0700

From: Heinz Wittenbecher <heinz#bytedesigns.com>

Subject: GenSet AC Switch-over relay problem

In my '76 Transmode the power panel includes a switch-over relay with a built-in delay. This gives the GenSet time to stabilize before the relay kicks in moving AC source from shorepower to GenSet.

The Panel, which includes the converter (which I no longer use) is made by Progressive Dynamics Inc of Marshall, MI as best as I can figure out by old nameplates. I missed the timewarp today so will try to call them tomorrow but thought I'd ask if anyone has anything similar that I might use in case I can't get a replacement.

It seems there is an AC sensor and a capacitor involved. Leads from the capacitor connect to the relay coil. I'm assuming the delay is caused by time it takes for the capacitor to charge and thereby supply power to the coil to close the relay contacts, or rather switch them. (The relay is a double pole/double throw)

I am considering replacing it with a manual drop relay if no alternative but thought I'd check here first.

Does the GMC factory installation have a time delay before the GenSet power actually comes on line or does it feed AC to the coach as soon as it's been started?

Thanks in advance.

Heinz

------------------------------------

 

Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 06:35:37 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet AC Switch-over relay problem

Heinz,

A new design crossover switch is available. I have them in 30 & 50 amp designs. They incorporate a timer circuit which allows the genny to warm up before it sees the load. I think they are not over $75.00. Give me a call at work and I'll give you more info.

Jim Bounds gmccoop.com

--------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 09:19:19 -0500

From: "Mark Grady" <mgrady#npcc.net>

Subject: RE: GenSet AC Switch-over relay problem (solid state reply)

Heinz,

Just a simple thought.

Some RV applications use an adjustable delay timer wired in series with the coil of the relay (delay on make). This 'little black box' has an adjustable delay before passing current to pull in the transfer switch relay coil and put the generator in the circuit.

The poop:

Part number TD-68

Sealed Unit Parts Company, Inc.

Allenwood, NJ 08720

"Solid State delay timer"

"Delay on make"

19 to 288 volts

6 second to 8 minute adjustable delay

I don't know where you can buy one, but I'd start with Grainger or Graybar Electric.

We use them at work on the 24 VAC side of multi-ton central air units to keep them from re-starting when our standby generators first kick in. (I work at a telephone company).

My recollection is that these only cost about $20 or so, very reliable, and simpler than an resistor/capacitor type circuit.

I think they use an NE-555 timer inside. They have a single screw hole to mount them, and they are about 1.5" square with two push on spade lugs.

Hope this idea helps.

Mark

-------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 18:07:01 EDT

From: <HLBF#aol.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Genset doesn't fire up anymore

Mine was running like a Singer, stopped her to add oil, noticed cover had vibrated off circuit board, would not start. Had 2 Onan "experts" tune, etc. - one said points preset # factory, other said you can't set timing on Onan, took her home, gapped the points, broke out the timing light and fired her up - - loped bad, rebuilt carb, found exhaust manifold gasket blown where a muffler expert had just replaced gasket and re-routed exhaust pipe through hole in tray where Onan expert said it was supposed to go and was causing overheating (then had to use cutting torch to remove section of tray so drawer would close). Made new gaskets for exhaust and for choke which heat from blown new gasket had burned up; would crank but not start, recently found it would crank if hooked to 50 amp charger, but not now, Jumped 9-11 and 7-1, fired up and ran smooth as a kitten, did not shut down when un-jumpered, and shut down from genset switch and remote switch (not supposed to); traced everything to bad K-1 start relay/solenoid, bought replacement from AutoZone, looked exactly alike, installed, now dead in the water like yours - only sign of life is fuel

pump when jumpered - would not even crank or make a sound when jumpered, returned solenoid for exchange, installed, same results, replaced again with old solenoid and she jumps off again and runs great.

MY DILEMNA - where do I find the correct solenoid??

Took choke apart & cleaned, made new gasket and adjusted, not getting fire thru solenoid - Onan wants $275 for choke. So far, I've spent over $2,000 on Onan and still can't depend on it. I'm ready for a Honda or anything else that will fit drawer - any suggestions??

Thanks!!

HLBF#AOL.COM

----------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 03:38:19 EDT

From: <RickStapls#aol.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Genset doesn't fire up anymore

HLBF,

FWIW, remember that a pre-engaging starter solenoid (such as those on our

V8s, AND our Onans) will usually not pull in (engage drive and then complete the circuit to the starter) unless the starter has continuity. This means no open windings, bad commutators, or (most likely) worn-out or stuck brushes. If you check a wiring diagram for one of these, you'll see that the solenoid has 2 sets of windings. One, called the pull-in winding, gets power from the key and GROUNDS through the starter. Once the starter drive has pulled in and the solenoid switch contacts complete the circuit, this winding no longer has any effect (12V at both ends), and the "hold-in" winding (grounded to the starter case) remains energized until the key is released, keeping things going. Generally, the "hold-in" winding doesn't have enough pull to engage the starter by itself.

This may or may not be your problem, but it's something to consider before springing for an expensive solenoid.

Good luck,

Rick Staples

---------------------------------------

 

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:11:50 -0600 (CST)

From: hdavis@ix.netcom.com

Subject: GMC: Disconnecting Onan flywheel alternator charger

Some of you may remember that I have benn searching for an answer to why my TrueCharge has been kicking offline sometimes.

I'll try the following suggestion from Duane this weekend and let you all know how it works out.

"Absolutely no problem disconnecting the Voltage Regulator (Charger) on

the Onan. The Flywheel Alternator is the source of voltage that is used by the

Voltage Regulator to provide a small output for charging an Onan dedicated (Early GMCs had small Motor Cycle type battery for starting the Onan & were charged only by the Onan Voltage Regulator). GM quickly recognized that House Battery could located near the Onan & serve dual purposes. However, the Voltage regulator was never removed from the Onan (no longer required since the Dual purpose battery was charge by the Engine alternator while driving & by the AC to DC converter when shore power is available). The Flywheel Alternator is required as a feedback signal to the Onan Control Board to identify that the Onan is running & the starter is automatically disconnected. Also for shut down function to remove Ignition power.

I have repaired many Onans control problems by disconnecting the wires (typ. 3 wires) going to the Voltage Regulator (faulty VR that are loading down the Flywheel Alternator output voltage). Remove the wires & tape up. Maintain the common connection if exist (typ. 2 wires together on one terminal).

We should all remove the VR wires as preventative maintenance!!

Duane"

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews

Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews

ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing

fax: (408) 462-5198

http://www.henry-davis.com

 

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:40:43 EST

From: Gplymate@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover

Who asked about getting a cover for the Onan circuit board the other day?

They are available from the factory through any Onan dealer. P/N 301-3597.

It's the biggest bargain there is for any part for your GMC. List price is $3.60.

Glenn

78K OR

-----------------------------------

 

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:59:48 -0800

From: Chuck Will <willa@impulse.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover

Hi Glen: Chuck here! I was not aware of the cover. Does it cover the entire board or just the front. My top is open and exposed. I have a cover that goes over the front, I should imagine to keep it from shorting out. But if the cover completely encloses the circuit board we must get one soon. Corrosion is the biggest enemy of these boards and without the board: No Generator.

Thanks Chuck

-----------------------------------

 

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 23:45:04 EST

From: Gplymate@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover

Chuck, don't get your hopes up. The part I mentioned is an OEM replacement, just like the one you have; open at the top. I needed one because the original cover on mine was missing. For $3.60, I couldn't pass it up.

But, now that you mentioned the idea, here's an opportunity. Why doesn't someone design a cover that would completely enclose and waterproof the board?

Glenn

78K OR (Nothing is waterproof here!)

----------------------------------------

 

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:31:34 -0800

From: Chuck Will <willa@impulse.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: Washing running hot engines, New Subject

I just got back. Washing an ONAN how? I think the big problem in washing the ONAN would be getting the Printed cirt board wet. Maybe it should be protected somehow with a plastic bag. I know the corrosion is not good for the boards. some of the circuitry is pretty close and corrosion might just get together and short something out. Maybe sealing the entire board in a clear poly coating might be ok? Any thoughts on this idea? Chuck in Lompoc.

Thomas G. Warner wrote:

> How many of you guys wash your Onan like that?

> At 11:28 PM 12/5/98 EST, you wrote:

> >Chuck

> >Thanks. I too have driven in the rain. Washed an engine or two. I just do not understand why people are so afraid of new ideas. Oh well I will still do

> >what I think I need to do to my GMC. May not be right but it is what I think I need to do. You all do what you think you need to do and we will compare notes later. Might be fun at some rally. WHAT DID YOU DO WRONG? Naw none of us would admit to that.

> >

> >Take Care

> >Arch

> >>

> >> Arch - not to worry - I frequently wash my toad (89 Jeep Wrangler) engine

> >> at the high pressure car wash. I do it with the engine warm/hot and running, and never cover the electrical system. (Not recommended for engines with electronics)

> >

> Tom & Marg Warner

> Vernon Center NY

> 1976 palmbeach

 

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 98 08:42:15 PST

From: "Diane Skinner" <fairwind@worldnet.att.net>

Subject: GMC: monitor panel

Well, we got the compressor working good. And its too wet to change the shocks (probably won't stop raining until July) so I thought maybe you guys would help me with this monitor panel. The circuit board is damaged and there is a chip out of one corner of the cover. Are these parts available? New or used would be good. Anyone try to fab the printed circut?? The copper strips are peeling off and look like too much applyed voltage. What is the reasoning behind the little resistors?? I realize they are for voltage drop, but do they make the gauges read half full or what?? That's my list of dumb questions

Thanks for the help

Terry Skinner

Web-footed in Washington

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:07:14 -0800

From: "Mike Finnicum" <songtekpub@msn.com>

Subject: GMC: Washing Generator

I wash mine all the time. I use simple green and house water. I try not to spray the circuit board area directly but have not covered it. We wash the coach after each trip (at least 1x per month) and do the gen about 4x a year with the engine compart and underbody.

No trouble so far.

But thatnks for the suggestion as I will cover it in the future as it seems like a logical idea. Sure can't hurt.

Mike F

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:00:05 EST

From: Gplymate@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Onan Circuit Board Cover Availability

On 12 Dec., Walter M. Drew wrote:

<<I am in need of a cover for my circuit board on an Onan 6 KW. Where did you get yours?>>

Mine came from Westline Industries, 1925 Lafayette St., Alameda, CA 94501

(510) 865 1210. They are the local Onan repair station, and had to order the cover from the factory. Any Onan dealer should be able to get one for you.

If you can't find one, call John at Westline Industries. He should be able to

help.

Be sure to use the part number and description: 301-3597, COVER. And, mention

it's for an Onan 6.0 KW Model NH "Power Drawer".

That's what I had to do.

Glenn

78K OR (no sunshine here) :-(

------------------------------

 

Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 10:12:13 EST

From: LNelson208@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Carb

In a message dated 12/25/98 11:23:10 PM Central Standard Time, Gplymate@aol.com writes:

<< I have an Onan that is about where yours was before it started purring. I suspect a fuel problem and think a carb rebuild is in order. Where is Walbro? And, how long does it take? >>

Glenn.......Walbro is who (probably) made your Onan carb if it is an LMB model. Send it to Louie at Walbro, 6214 Garfield, Cass City, MI 48726, (517) 872 2131, got mine back in a week. My Onan ran very rich and would load up big time. It would run with the main fuel adjustment turned completely "in". Otherwise, the carb looked great. Cost is $35 plus shipping. Call Louie. BTW, There is a salvager in Carthage (near here), MO (Colaw) and the guy thinks he has some of these carbs. They are moving a block or two, and after the first of the year I am heading down there. Larry Nelson, PB 75, Springfield, MO

-------------------------------

 

Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 20:13:54 EST

From: CHill113@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Carb

Glenn

First thing to do regarding the oil leak is to take off the "S" shaped crankcase vent hose that is near the carb and check it. I had oil coming out all over and paid for several unsuccessful attempt by Onan people to solve the problem. Turned out this hose had collapsed INTERNALLY and was causing back-pressure to build up in the crankcase. A new hose, and no oil leaks. May not be your problem, but check it out and hope it is because that is a quick cheap fix.

Justin

 

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 01:52:18 EST

From: simmee@juno.com (duane m simmons)

Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #171

Richard Guthart/Frank SW Indiana

I did post a reply pertaining to the smart chargers being fooled by the Onan Voltage Regulator (VR) output. Most Onan VR don't work anyway, not required & become a problem by loading down the Flywheel Alternator to the point that it will not achieve it's primary function....feedback signal to identify that the Onan is running. Best to remove the wires from the VR & tape them up (maintain the common connected wires as common). All Onans are not wired identical, however, most have 3 wires attached to the VR. One is by itself & 2 are common on 1 VR terminal. After removing the wires, tape up the single wire by itself & keep the two wires together & tape them up if so configured. The only time the Onan VR is required is for some of the early coaches that had a small dedicated battery for the Onan start battery. The only was to charge that dedicated battery was via the Onan VR. At best the VR output is 2 amperes maximum. Cannot be the 10 amperes as advertized (charges thru a 5 ampere fuse).

Most early coaches have been upgraded to a common house & Onan battery in the rear. Two 6 volt Golf Cart batteries makes one 12v battery pack via wire connection (series connection...the + & - leads are connected together).

Hope this helps !!!

Happy GMCing

Duane Simmons

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:51:19 EST

From: Gplymate@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Onan Carburetor

Larry,

Many thanks for the info on Walbro. It's looking more and more like I'll have to be sending them my carb. My Onan will run just fine after I load up the carb with fuel by energizing the fuel pump and then hit the starter switch. It runs for 2 or 3 minutes, then quits cold. The troubleshooting guide says it could be a bad fuel pump or a dirty carburetor. The fuel pump has been exonerated so the next thing to try is cleaning out the carbureator. If that doesn't cure the problem, then it's off to Walbo for a rebuild.

Thanks, again, for the quick comeback.

Glenn

78K OR

------------------------------------

 

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:51:13 EST

From: Gplymate@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Onan Oil Leak

Justin,

Many thanks for the tip on a potential trouble area to check for the cause of my Onan oil leak. Now that you mention it, I noticed the crankcase vent hose does look quite sad. It is visibly collapsed on the outside, and could very well be blocked on the inside, too. I think I'll take some initiative and go ahead and replace it. That, and the oil filter, too (the one that's on there now is not an Onan filter). I'll be hoping for a dry engine when I get my Onan running again.

Your past tips have had a very high batting average. I'm betting this one will do the trick, too. Thanks, again, for sharing your experience.

Glenn

78K OR

-----------------------

 

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:19:37 EST

From: HLBF@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Carburetor

Another possibility........a few months ago mine exhibited the same symptoms. I spent several hours troubleshooting before noticing that the air intake hose from the air cleaner to the carb was totally collapsing upon start-up...the air cleaner was clogged.

Lanier

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 20:36:36 EST

From: CHill113@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan Oil Leak

Re: the Onan oil filter. Someone on the web gave me the address of a company that sells a permanent air filter. I ordered one and it looks good. It is metal, and can be cleaned and re-oiled. As an aside however it caused me quite a hassel. About a month after I received it, I got a call from the Visa fraud unit inquiring if we had been in Colorado and Kansas. Yes we had. Have you

used your card today in Florida. Nope. Well someone at a "truck stop" has just

used your number to charge about $30. They said to cut up my cards and they

would send new ones. We did and they sent new ones. A few weeks later my

wife just happend to notice that the oil filter company which is located here

in Okla, has an office in Haven, Fl or some such name. So it was a legitimate

charge, but we didn't recognize. So alls well that ends well.

Justin

Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:

 

 

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 09:37:22 -0800

From: "Heinz Wittenbecher" <heinz@bytedesigns.com>

Subject: GMC: GenSet replacemnet

In the Dec GMC MH News (Cinnebar), a mention is made of a direct replacement kit using the Generac NP66G.

Has anyone on this list done it? Anyone have any comments re Generac in general. My only experience has been the 2400 watt vertical that runs at

3600 and was an embarrasment to start, due to the noise.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Heinz

'76 Transmode (less working GenSet)

 

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 12:00:44 -0800 (PST)

From: herm beeck <hbeeck@yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet replacemnet

Heinz

I am still waiting for my Muffler. I selected the Honda EV6010 because of the water cooled engine and the higher RPM / more inertia, more stable to transients. This should be important to you since you are very Frequency conscious for your electronics. Has got to be more quiet than the 1800 rpm air cooled Onan. You do not have to mount the Honda on a slide-out since all service points are on the same side.

herm

 

- ---Roger Black <rblack@tecinfo.com> wrote:

>

> Heinz,

> I have a Generac 5000 for my house since we have such persistant electrical

> outages. It is so loud, I'm looking for another exhaust system to quieten

> it down. Wife won't let me run it but periodically cause the noise bothers

> her and the rest of the town. Fortunately, I don't hear it at all. Guess

> the noise runs in the family of that brand.

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:55:06 EST

From: RickStapls@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet replacement

In a message dated 1/3/99 3:00:05 PM EST, hbeeck@yahoo.com writes:

> I selected the Honda EV6010

> because of the water cooled engine and.......

Herm,

I've been wondering about those water-cooled Hondas... Does it have a real

water pump and thermostat, or just some sort of passive water jacket? (My

fantasy is to connect the genset cooling system to an auxiliary heater in the

coach, but only possible with a pump-circulated cooling system.)

Also, be sure to keep us posted on how quiet it is when you get it installed, how it fits, etc. Good luck with it!

Rick Staples

'75 Eleganza

Louisville, CO

 

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 08:48:55 -0500 (EST)

From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner@borg.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: GenSet replacemnet

The December issue of the GMC motorhome news has an article on the replacement cinnabar has selected for replacement. They claim they looked at all of the new generators and selected this one because it fits perfectly in the space, puts out 6.6KW, does not shake or vibrate and all service points are located up front so it does not have to be slid oout of the cavity. It is the Genarac NP66G. From the pictures provided it has a large muffler mounted underneath the coach and should be very quiet. Good thing about it is that oil filters etc are available at walmart. price at cinnabar is $2849. At this site they are $2595 http://www.advrv.com/generators.htm

The compact, highly advance NP-50G and NP-66G gensets feature Generac's exclusive GN-360 and GN-480 OHV engines, which provide about 25% less fuel

consumption that competitive units. And 25% less oil consumption. Combine

Generac's OHV engine technology with the field-proven, belt-drive power train and the result is superior air conditioner motor starting, and up to 20% weight reduction compared to competitive Mobile generators. Customers like best the up front serviceability. Routine maintenance items such as plugs, air and oil filters are conveniently positioned for easy access. Additional advantages include greatly reduced vibration and 30% engine sound reduction over competitive units. Fits in compartment - minimum size -17.5"Hx26"Wx19"D.

NP-50G - $2095.00 NP-66G - $2595.00

I like this one better and it fits in the same space as the NP66G, and for the same price.

Generac's new premium HIGHLINE Q-Series gensets achieve the highest levels of engineering refinement and quiet quality. Q-Series gensets combine advance technologies with distinctively powerful OHV engines. These higher horsepower engines deliver more kilowatts of electricity at significantly lower rpm's. Thus sounds level and vibration are reduced far below competitive standards.

The Q-55G and Q-70G are specially designed for top-of-the-line coaches. With plenty of power to spare, these gensets fit conveniently into the same compact space as the NP-50G and NP-66G. Higher wattage output and even lower sound levels are achieved without the inconvenience of specialized installation requirements.

Lower rpm's, special laminated housing, anti-vibration mounting system, quieter engines: all these innovations contribute to noise-free comfort. Research shows that when a coach is parked, the generator produces sound waves that reverberate back from the ground below. In response to this finding, a special sound deadening material is designed beneath the generator to reduce sound wave penetration. Maybe a small measure, but it illustrates the dedication of Generac engineers to deliver the very best in HIGHLINE quality and comfort.

Q-Series generators set the highest standards ever achieved for quiet, reliable performance. For top-of-the-line coaches with special power requirements, only Generac HIGHLINE Q-Series gensets offer comfort and quality that you will appreciate, but never hear. Fits in compartment -minimum size -17.5"Hx26"Wx19"D.

Q-55G - $2095.00 Q-70G - $2795.00

Hope this helps

 

 

At 06:38 PM 1/3/99 -0800, you wrote:

>Thanks guys,

>The Honda is still top of the list but still checking out all options.

>

>Email from Cinnebar had a comment that the Generac was 'quieter' than the

>Honda, but not sure which Honda was referenced.

>

>Herm: have you started installing or waiting until you have it all?

>Heinz

 

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 01:51:06 EST

From: Adohen@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Generator

Hi GMCers!

I got a sales brochure in the mail today which had some gen-sets for sale. Check it out http://www.tractorsupplyco.com/cirp8.htm There so cheap you could throw them away every four years and get a new one. Anyone ever use one of these? Would they work with modifications?

Scott Adohen@aol.com

 

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 22:26:15 EST

From: RickStapls@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Generator

Scott,

A cursory read of that website makes me think these are lightweight "emergency" generators. Generally considered very LOUD, and not too durable.

A real "RV" generator (Onan, some Hondas, etc) costs more because it's built for continuous duty and lower decibels. There has been much discussion of this topic in < rec.outdoors.rv-travel >, suggest checking the archives of Dejanews. I suspect one of these bargain gensets would make you pretty unpopular at the campground, not to mention with your wife! Just my .02.

Rick Staples

'75 Eleganza

 

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:26:51 -0800

From: Dan Winchester <d.l.winchester@ieee.org>

Subject: GMC: ONAN Gen Problem

Here is a real puzzle for you engineer types. I am also an engineer and haven't been able to solve it.

When the start button is pushed some of the time the starter will not disengage, even pushing the stop button will not stop the starter. The

only solution is to pull the wire from the starter solenoid on the starter

motor. This is rather inconvenient if you start it remotely from inside.

When pulling the wire from the start solenoid there is a small spark indicating that power is getting there from somewhere, but the relay K1 is d-energized. If I pull the choke wire from the output of K1 that also stops the starter. There is however no power to the choke so it cant be the source of power keeping the starter solenoid engaged.

After pulling the wire, plugging it back in does not re-engage the starter.

Got any good solutions.

Please replay direct as well as a copy to the list so I can see your answers asap and not wait for the journal copy to be generated.

Dan Winchester

 

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:47:30 -0800

From: Gary Miller <grizzly@harborside.com>

Subject: GMC: Onan

Dan-

Mine did exactly the same thing. Real exciting when it happened first time and I had just gotten out of the shower!!!

I had the unit serviced and they said that they found the solenoid gear/shaft was loaded with dry, hard grease. Once that was removed and cleaned up it works just fine now. Probably was the original lubricant that had gotten hard and dirty with age. Suggest you pull the starter and solenoid and take a look.

Gary

'77 Kingsley

North Bend, Oregon Coast

 

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:49:34 EST

From: Micalnnk@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Onan starter not disengaging

I had the same problem with my Onan. After checking everything out and (needlessly) replacing the control panel, I gave up and when I was at Sirum's

in Orlando, Fl., asked Jeff Sirum about it. He said it was often caused by some voltage backfeed to the relay (I believe relay 3 if I recall correctly) that allows the starter to disengage once the engine is running. He said that

is easy to fix, and installed a small diode in the relevant wire and, presto,

no more problem. Unfortunately there was a lot going on and I don't remember

exactly how to identify the wire. I would suggest that you call Sirum and ask

for Alex or Jeff (father and son). They are very helpful; (941) 763-1121 is

their number.

mick putney, Kingsley 78

 

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:22:35 -0500

From: searlecj@sensible-net.com (Clark Searle)

Subject: Re: GMC: ONAN Gen Problem

Dan Winchester wrote:

> When the start button is pushed some of the time the starter will not disengage, even pushing the stop button will not stop the starter. The only solution is to pull the wire from the starter solenoid on the starter motor. This is rather inconvenient if you start it remotely from inside.

Don't have any first hand knowledge about the Onan starter electrical circuit, but typically starters have a solenoid that uses a low current electro magnet to draw the high current contacts (connected to battery cable) into engagement.

Sometimes the high current contacts will temporarily weld and stick together.

But that may not be the explanation in your case, since you mentioned that the starter stops when the wire is disconnected. I'm assuming you are referring to the small wire (switch circuit) and not the battery cable. If that's the case, I'm uncertain how or why it still has any power when the start switch is off. Power to the low current side should only come via one of the start switches. Could be a switch problem. Does the starter do this when using either the remote or outside start switch?

Clark

78 Kingsley

Mt. Pleasant, Mich

> > I was quoted $205 as the price for the entire starter, rebuilt, for the Onan 6k generator that came on my '78. Does this price sound ball-park or

out of

Check the yellow pages under Automobile Electric Service for a rebuilder, then call to check his understanding of the Onan - I was told by more than one Onan/GMC guru they couldn't be rebuilt because of some kind of bass-ackward winding, but my local rebuilder didn't read that chapter and went ahead and rebuilt 2 for me so far, and they look like new and crank stronger 'n mule

vinegar. Cost: about $40 each IIRC. Also, had the same outfit rebuild 2 Onan

carbs with kits I ordered from V. E. Petersen for $7 each, charged less than

$25 each.

Onan quoted me $285 for that gold-plated choke - they can't be repaired either

- - took that sucker apart, cleaned with WD40, made new gasket, rebent that

little thingamajig - works like a charm.

BTW, when I took mine apart to replace the Onan, I found the only things

separating the genset from my sheets & pillowcase to be a piece of 5/8"

plywood, 1" of light foam, and a thin sheet of asbestos-looking cloth - no

wonder my co-pilot complained of fumes and noise (she says 40 years of pipe-

smoking has rendered my smeller useless). Anyhow, it is now surrounded by

3-ply "The Insulator" (so good, I've decided to take on their product line for

RV's, boats, airplanes, etc), and for overkill and extra support I sandwiched

it and a layer of 1/8" thick sheet of lead between the plywood and a sheet of

22 gauge sheetmetal.

Lanier

 

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:26:39 EST

From: EMERYSTORA@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke

In a message dated 1/18/99 9:38:08 PM, brush@cruzio.com writes:

<< You may not need to replace the choke, if the ground is bad. It's worth checking out.

B Rush

73 Canyonlands >>

I agree. I found that if I ran a ground wire from the choke metal enclosure to a screw on the Onan shroud my choke would work fine. I soldered it to the metal part of the Choke and put the other end of the wire under the screw using a ring connector. Crimping connectors to wire invites future trouble unless you also solder them. I did this about 5 years ago and have not had any choke problems since.

Emery Stora

77 Kingsley

Santa Fe, NM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:10:27 EST

From: EMERYSTORA@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke

In a message dated 1/19/99 12:55:50 PM, CHill113@aol.com writes:

<< Thanks, I'll double check it. My mechanic insists the coil is bad. But he

has been wrong before. >>

Justin -- take off the choke and clean it well. Check the coil for continuity by using either an ohmmeter (VOM) or a test light with a battery and put one end to the end of the wire going to the choke and the other end to the metal case (ground). If your meter shows resistance, the coil is probably good and

the Choke may be binding on the housing or the wire connections corroded. If

there is too much resistance in the circuit as may be caused by a corroded connection, the choke will not get enough current to actuate. If there is no

resistance (open circuit) check where the wire from the coil connects to the

feed wire to be sure it is not broken at some point.

Emery Stora

77 Kingsley

Santa Fe, NM

 

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:36:18 -0500

From: "Mark Grady" <mgrady@bnin.net>

Subject: GMC: starter for Onan 6k, $205? (looks like a Mazda starter)

I don't want to spread a rumor, but... When I needed a new solenoid for my

6K Onan, I found that a Nippendenso solenoid for a Mazda starter fit. (That

was 5 years ago, so the memory is a little cloudy.)

I'm at work, so I don't have the part number, but I think this is a 'known'

substitution.

That isn't saying the *starter* from a Mazda will fit, but.. if you are

going the rebuild route, you might consider replacing the solenoid at the

same time.

A rebuild by a good auto electric shop (as suggested) is a good way to go if

you don't want to make a contribution to the Onan profit sharing program.

Does this trigger any thoughts by anyone else? Isn't there a parts

interchange for this starter to a common application?

You could also consider trying your local John Deere lawn and garden store.

They used a lot of Onan engines. Sometimes genuine JD parts are half the

Onan price.

Mark

mgrady@bnin.net

'77 K

Snowing, 22

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:07:25 EST

From: duane m simmons <simmee@juno.com>

Subject: GMC: Onan Start Problem

Dan

I have seen the same starter hang-up problem several times but have not

instrumented for failure analysis like you have. I have always found that the starter solenoid is hanging up & maintaining power to the solenoid's small lead & K-3 relay. Removal of the small lead has shut down the starter motor. Never tried the lead to the Choke. Since the choke does not have power applied, maybe the choke is acting like a sink/ground which is holding the starter solenoid closed/active. May have multiple faults that are causing the noted symptoms. A clean up or replacement of the starter solenoid has fixed the problem for me. I am very interested in your final analysis & problem solution.

Happy GMCing

Duane

 

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 22:16:05 -0500

From: davegreenberg1@juno.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke

. But I do have need of an Onan choke

>for the Onan 6000. I've been reading where several may have changed out their

>Onan for something else. Does anyone have a used choke for sale? This country

>boy isn't about to pay the Price Onan wants for one.

>Justin 77PB

>

Mine burned out about 3 years ago (actually caught fire) and the old Onan with over 7,000 hours on it has never started and run better!

David Lee Greenberg F22009

GMC Motorhome Registry

200 MacFarlane Drive PH4

Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:20:49 -0500

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds@sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan choke

Justin,

Yes, I think I have a choke for the power drawer. Call me tomo0rrow and I'll look. 1-977-275-4462.

Jim Bounds

 

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:48:16 EST

From: duane m simmons <simmee@juno.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #203

Greg

$205 is the cost of a new Starter,not rebuilt, at my local Onan supply. Local shops can also rebuilt your starter at about $150. Best buy is a new starter which has a new clutch assembly which is not included w/rebuilt unit. Onan P/N 191-1949-03 will fit 6 & 4 KW units. Be sure to check the mounting surface for possible interference. A slight file or grind may be required for proper fit. The Original starter P/N has been obsoleted & may not have a replacement noted so don't lose this number. Also, Ragusa Products have a heavy duty cast steel, stronger than OEM, starter bracket if one is needed. About 1/3 cost at Onan.

Happy GMCing

Duane.

 

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 05:46:50 EST

From: HLBF@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Onan (noise and fume insulation)

In a message dated 1/20/99 1:55:22 AM EST, GONEMAD5@aol.com writes:

> Did you have to take the Onan out to replace the old insulation with "The

> Insulator"? or can you get to most of it thru the right rear davo?

Obviously, its easier to replace/add insulation with the genset out, but it

can be done from the inside alone. Question is, do you have the fibreglass

shell over the genset or is it simple cabinetry? My '73 has no shell and all I

had to do was remove that side of the bed and the single sheet of plywood it

rested upon - makes it much easier to measure and fit into place, and you'll

want to tape all the seams with their super-duper 2-3" wide alum tape.

Replacing the genset without a hoist is kinda tricky, to say the least, but

mine was so old, cantankerous and greasy, and I had this new one taking up

space in the driveway, so I just had to do it. Also, it would take a

contortionist to get behind the genset to properly place, glue, and tape the

insulation on the back (interior) wall, so you might as well do it right the

first time and take the opportunity to clean the cables, cabinet, etc..

Example - when I installed the macerator, I wired it direct to the genset

battery terminals - on this project, my engineer rewired it to the posts on

the bottom rear of the genset cabinet and placed the fuse back there. Just try

getting both hands in the back of that cabinet to change a fuse - I invested

in 3 more feet of wire and moved that dude to the outside.

I didn't mean to write a treatise. When you get ready to do it, holler at me

and I'll tell you more.

Lanier

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:47:27 EST

From: Gcbr@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Heavy aluminum shields around generator and propane tanks

Manny

I have no idea if you did the right thing or not. I will give you the theory.

If you insulate the boxes with much of anything you are going to trap moisture next to the metal. Aluminum should be able to withstand the moisture better than most metals. Not what I know but what I have been told.

Take Care

Arch 76 GB IL

In a message dated 1/20/99 10:07:23 PM Central Standard Time, MTrovao@aol.com

writes:

>

> I have a 73 and all it had was plywood behind this foam with black paper

> that was deteriorating.

> I had both compartments covered with galvanized sheet metal.

> Should I have used aluminum instead?

 

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:27:08 -0700

From: Darren Paget <paget@telusplanet.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: Heavy aluminum shields around generator and propane tanks

These aluminum boxes are interesting. I was trying to come up with an idea on how to protect the fiberglass compartments on the inside of the coach and to also give myself a way to have a solid attachment point for the rear benches and other stuff. Lo and behold I came up with aluminum boxes made of 1/8 th inch material, contoured to fit exactly over the fiberglass boxes. I thought it was an original idea. I am also using this method to cover over the wheel wells. By the way, this also includes end caps to almost totally enclose the fiberglass. All four boxes weigh about 110 lbs. Still working on it. Probably seven months to go. Darren

 

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:40:55 EST

From: Adohen@aol.com

Subject: GMC: Front Support Towers and Aluminum Rear Propane and Gen Box

Hi Henry!

Good to have you back on line. I have a 1975 26' Palm Beach that has the alu.

boxes. They seem to be pretty substantial. The only problem I have encountered with them is the pop rivet heads. I have replaced about five in each compartment. They are extremely large. I used 3/16 poprivets that are used to replace window assemblies in car doors. I had to use a hydraulic pop

rivet tool.

The front support towers on my GMC are tubular and can be viewed on my practice website <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/gmcgrlk/index.htm">Home Page

</A>, open your browser to large, put sound on, go to site, go get a cup of

coffee, it should have totally loaded by then. There are also some pictures

that show some of the alu. boxes.

Scott Adohen@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:32:57 EST

From: HamRealtor@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: ONAN Gen Problem

In a message dated 1/15/99 11:27:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,

d.l.winchester@ieee.org writes:

<< d.l.winchester@ieee.org >>

The terminal on the solenoid where the start wire is connected has two wires going into the solenoid. One of the wires goes thru a coil and then grounds to

the solenoid.

The other wire goes thru a coil and then connects to the bolt where power is

supplied to the starter motor by closing of the circuit inside the solenoid.

This coil is of larger wire and will draw more current. When power is applied

the larger coil and the smaller one together close the circuit inside the

solenoid. When the contacts are connected the point where the larger wire is

connected now has power so no current flows because it has power on both

ends. Before the contacts close it grounds thru the starter brushes. It has

two coils to have the extra pull to get the drive engaged and the solenoid

contacts closed. If the spring is weak that opens the ciucuit or the shaft is

dirty the large coil can get voltage from inside and a ground from something

that's connected to the wire that connects to the start terminal and hold the

circuit closed.

Make sense?

Does anyone have any old (working or not) starters for the Onan or the GMC

that they would like to part with or have repaired or rebuilt? Alternators?

The alternators can be increased to 100 amps.

Comments?

David

 

Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 23:46:46 EST

From: RickStapls@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Power Switch / TS30 relay

In a message dated 2/14/99 6:38:38 PM MST, digitek@concentric.net writes:

> power at home has been going out a lot lately. I utilized the generator of

> the coach to run the house a few times this Winter, but was limited to 2 20 AMP circuits. I thought that if I had all 50 AMPS available to my house, I

> would be better off.

 

Richard,

Whatever you do, if you are supplying power into the house wiring from your GMC's generator, PLEASE be sure to install and use a proper transfer switch in

your house. These switches make it physically impossible to connect the generator and utility company sources together, which could kill someone working on the lines, or overload/short out your generator. (That's why they're required by law, but I don't need laws to tell me when something is a

real good idea!) Shutting off the house entrance switch is not enough, as someone could easily turn it back on by mistake, all too possible in an

emergency situation.

If you have frequent outages, or are real concerned over the Y2K thing, the

transfer switch is worth the $$. OTOH, I'm just going to wire up my furnace with a cord and plug, so I can disconnect from the house wiring and plug into

a (heavy) extension cord from the GMC. Either way, total separation is

maintained.

My .02, HTH.

Rick Staples

'75 Eleganza

Louisville, CO

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:19:27 EST

From: duane m simmons <simmee@juno.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #258

Lanier

Onan Board Repair Address is as follows:

Duane Simmons

4320 Fernwood Ave

Orange, CA 92869

Phone number is 714-633-4731. Also advise packing it in a small

cardboard box & ship via Postal service w/o insurance (slows down receipt

if insured).....never lost one yet.

Happy GMCing

Duane