WINDOWS

 

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:36:04 -0500

From: "Bartz, Paul" <s9d3452#mail.drms.dla.mil>

Subject: GMC: RE: Covers for front windows

Ralph:

I have one that goes over the outside of the windshield and driver and passenger side windows. It's perforated material so you can see out of it from the inside. Just the opposite at night with lights on inside the coach.

It cuts down the heat buildup through the glass very well. Came with both Velcro and snap mounting systems. I used the snaps, as the Velcro mounts adhere to the body of the coach and stand out like a sore thumb due to their size.

If you have wind wings, the cover can be made to accommodate them.

I got it from Chandler of Palm Springs, in CA. You should be able to find their ad in the back pages of the FMCA magazine or call 800 information. If that doesn't work, let me know and I have the number at home.

Paul Bartz

 

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Ralph Edelbach [SMTP:edelbach#TCNJ.EDU]

> Sent: Monday, March 30, 1998 10:01 AM

> Subject: GMC: Covers for front windows

>

> HI GMCers:

>

> Now that hot weather has arrived, at least for a few days, I'm getting ready to order some covers/shades for the front windows. Seen the ones which go over the outside as well as those which fasten against the windows on the inside.

>

> Any suggestions about either one and good sources to check-out will be appreciated.

> Thanks and happy motoring.

 

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 00:11:47 -0400 (EDT)

From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>

Subject: GMC: WIND NOISE

Took first 450-mile trip yesterday in my first GMC motorhome and heard lots of windnoise around the front windows. Is this normal or is there someway to reduce it. Am I incorrect in assuming that much of it comes from the outside mounted rearview mirrors? Is there a better and quieter outside mirror available? Any help will be appreciated.

 

Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 17:18:32 EDT

From: CHill113 <CHill113#aol.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: WIND NOISE

You may be getting some wind noise from the sliding windows. Mine had a tendency to slide open slightly and leak air. The original window locks left something to be desired. I solved the problem by getting quarter inch or five eighths wooden dowel sticks and cutting to the right length to wedge between the bottom of the window and the front. I found I needed to put a screw in on the other end for it to wedge against. No air leaks now. You may also have worn window channels.

 

Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 09:09:26

From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com

Subject: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?

I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side windows they move great. However, the two movable windows in the living area do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls the handle. It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've cleaned a bunch of dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped much. How do I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that should be used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).

Thanks,

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

 

Hi Henry,

I would suggest using Silicone spray...I haven't used it on my GMC (only owned it for three days) but I have installed hundreds of sliding windows and doors in houses. That's what We use to spray the tracks. Talking about windows.... Mine need new seals, weatherstrip, etc. Anybody recondition these on there own? What does the job entail? My glass looks good except for a slight haze around the outer edges. If I tint the glass will that hide the haze? How easy is it to remove the windows and frames?

Thanks,

Rob

 

Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:16:23

From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>

Subject: RE: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?

I understand from the manual that you can replace the seals without removing the windows. Golbys, cinnabar and Gateway have the material.

Thomas

 

You are right you can replace the seals without removing the window in theory. 3 of my windows had shifted from there original position. They are still not sealed well. None of my windows will move because someone shot silly cone into the seals to fix leaks. Looking for a different windows. Anybody got any good ideas. BTW Jim Bounds has the seals also. Patrick has the pics.

Take Care

Arch

 

We have re-channelled all of our windows. It is a easy but tedious job. For this job you do not have to remove the window, it is a push, pull and slide type job. It took the two of us to work as a team. We took an old piece of the channelling and had our local RV store match it. One of our mistakes was on one of the front windows. We did not clean the track really well, and it does not slide easy. We must have left a clump or some in the track.

Also a friend of ours that work for a car dealership says that really fine steel wool will remove haze on glass. Even though our windshield has haze around the edges, we have not tried this.

'73 Painted Desert

Les & Des mailto:lesndes#livingpraise.org

 

Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 11:51:24

From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>

The haze on the glass is between the laminates. It can sometimes be removed by using two household irons one on each side. Haven't tried it yet, got this information from my brother who claims to have done it before. He works for General Motors. Irons on low heat will relaminate the glass to the strip of plastic between the glass.

I pulled my front side windows out last week and redid everything including the channel. The windows came out easily after all the trim was removed (not so easy and a pain in the a**). The windows glass, frame and every where else imaginable had been sealed, resealed and done

again with sill(y)cone. I disassembled the frame, glass and rubber gasket material carefully, removed all RTV crap and started fresh. 3M makes a great urethane glass sealer for use on windows. An auto paint store should have it in tubes for a caulking gun, about $10.00 a tube

but well worth it. I used the urethane sealer in the rubber channel to seal the channel to the glass and in the aluminum frame to seal the rubber to the frame. This worked well, but you need to use the sealer sparingly so as not to get it all over everything.

I then put a small bead of 3M Windoweld ribbon sealer around the opening to seal the frame to the coachwork. The ribbon sealer is about 1/4 inch in diameter (too thick) so you have to pull it like taffy to make it smaller 1/8 of a bead. Then put the frame in and adjust as needed. The

ribbon sealer remains pliable and soft to retain a seal and you can shift the frame slowly to get an exact fit.

This approach is time consuming but makes for a tight new seal. Silicone merely patches and over the years gives way and looks like #####. The new products to seal windows and leaks for autos is great stuff and there are a number of 3M products made specifically for the process. Use RTV in the bathroom and not on your auto windows. The bathroom dose not flex and move like our coaches do and silly cone does not fair well in that environment. 3M also makes a strip caulk for sealing all sorts of windows, light joints, body joints and small holes. The cost for a box (20 yds) again is around $10. If any one wants part #s let me know. A good auto paint supplier will have all of the goodies for window and leak repair. Just ask when it is slow. Afternoons between 2 and 4 during the middle of the week is good. Bring the coach and they love to come out and give all sorts of advice.

Marcus

 

 

Folks:

Has anyone on this net tried either of the above methods to remove this haze?

It is my understanding that the problem is caused by UV deterioration of the plastic laminate between the glass, a process similar to the oxidation that turns white plastic headliners yellow over time. Haze is fortunately not such an issue with newer windows which have laminates containing relatively effective UV inhibitors, but in the 1970's...well, plastics were still being perfected and heat & light eventually hazes those laminates.

However, it would be a real pleasure to find a method to remove this haze.... other than the expensive one of replacing entire windows!

Anneke

Houston

 

I havenít tried this fix yet. But I will try it when I get the coach home to work on it. I think I will try using two hair dryers first as I think the irons may not work good because of the curvature of

the glass. However, I think its worth a try and I donít think the heat will harm anything.

Rob

 

Rob,

The channel is the felt piece your window slides through in the frame. It is placed top, bottom and sides using one long piece of channeling. You do not have to remove the outer frame to accomplish this task.

Have fun.

'73 Painted Desert

Les & Des

 

I have been following your info seek for several days and have seen some good advise being given. In that light, I thought I would chime in with some helpful info.

If you refelt the driver & pass. sliders, I have found it prudent to remove the vertical bar on the edge of the slider and trim off an 8th of an inch or so to assure it does not drag on the felt and make it difficult to move. Take a 2x4, hold it against the edge of the trim and hit the wood with a hammer to push it off of the glass. Reins. it with the same wood block.

For the stop for the driver/pass. slider glass, turn a section of the felt over and install it at the end of the slider traveland up the back radiused corner to the top of the back corner of the fixed glass. That sure sounds complicated! Call me at work tomorrow if it was confusing.

As I believe ARCH said earlier, you will probably find 1 or more windows shifted forward. If so, you need to reset them with new butyl rubber tape. Drill an 8th" hole at the top & bottom of the vertical bar between the 2 pieces of glass and pop rivet it in place. Many coaches already have this but some do not. This keeps the fixed glass from shifting out of its position.

I have just gotten in the felt material which fits in the vertical bar. It is special in that it has 2 plastic seals in between the felt which help keep out water & wind. I had lost the part # for some time and have just recently researched & found it again. Call me if you need some, its cheap!

I also have a modified latch for the side windows that seems to work pretty well for late style windows. Golby has available latches for the driver/ pass. and early style windows.

If you need the screw/washer fasteners for the driver/pass. windows, I give those out for free, call me.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

 

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 19:10:52

From: "Mark Grady" <mgrady#npcc.net>

Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens (reply)

I'll look to see where, but I have a set we got years ago. They fit on the interior, and stick fast to Velcro that goes inside the windshield. They fit the front windshields and the back window.

We don't use them as much after we tinted the windows with 'limousine' type window tint. I actually am probably breaking the law in some states, but I double applied the tint, which does an excellent job. (All sides and back, but not the windshield.)

We kept only the sliding curtain behind the front seats, and use Plexiglas valances and accordion pleated shades on the side windows. During the day, all shades are in the stowed and locked and position, which gives a great view. The tint reduces heat gain, and keeps the interior private.

The only thing I'd change is that I used a smoke colored tint, and I'd opt for maybe something more reflective, (silvered) if I had a do over. I think that would even further reduce heat gain by reflecting it, rather than making the glass get thermally hot because it's dark colored.

I'd see if you can find a patio door type of heat reflective film rather than the automotive style, and if its not dark enough, put another layer on about a week later.

It works fine, you just need to be careful when you put it on. No cutting on the glass.

Good luck.

Mark

 

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 19:30:37

From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com

Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens (reply)

3M makes a high performance "bronze" tint that is twice as effective at reflecting light (and particularly those wavelengths most responsible for heat) as compared to the smoke tint. I just had one vehicle done with the bronze tint and it works very well. Now I just have to convince my wife that it's a good investment for the GMC.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

 

Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 10:47:31

From: "Ralph D. Edelbach" <edelbach#tcnj.edu>

Subject: Re: GMC: Windshield Sun Screens

I'm getting ready to order two items from Camping World to keep the sun out of my coach. They are:

#1 Reflectix Insulation available in 2' X 20' and 4' X 20' rolls. Their customer service person told me it is a sandwich of metalized polyester surfaces with a layer of 5/8" bubble pack in between. I plan to put it in between my slat type shades and the windows, attached with velcro. Their phone is 800/TRYFOIL and web page http://www.reflectixinc.com. Other vendors may carry it as well although I'm going to buy from Camping World. The 4' X 20' roll is part number # 12233 and lists for about $20.00.

#2 Compact RV Twist Shade White Dupont Tyvek sping loop shade stands up to the sun to help keep your RV cooler. Collapses to 1/10 of its fully extended size of 42" high X 96" wide. Two

piece design for full coverage of Class A windshields. $17.97. Part number is 12769.

 

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:49:55 -0700

From: "Heinz Wittenbecher" <heinz#bytedesigns.com>

Subject: GMC: Looking for feedback on replacing Window seals & channeling

My windows are rattling really bad now and I'm tired of looking at cardboard pieces stuffed in as silencers so I'm considering redoing the seals (rubber) and also the tracks. I'm assuming I'll be able to get new tracks at Cinnebar, will be calling them tomorrow.

The question is really to try and establish how big an undertaking it is. Never having done any glass stuff I'm a little apprehensive about getting in over my head.

I have the rubber seal. What is used to hold it in? I'm assuming some kind of silicone sealer gets involved?

Any hints/experiences greatly appreciated.

Heinz

'76 Transmode

 

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 20:17:05 -0400 (EDT)

From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner#borg.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Looking for feedback on replacing Window seals & channeling

Heinz, the tracks are easy to put in and can be bought from Gateway, Cinnabar, or Alex Sirum.

 

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 23:21:38 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Looking for feedback on replacing Window seals & channeling

Heinz,

The rubber seal is held in by the lock flaps on the bottom of the trim. Don't worry about getting in over your head, you don't have to go to the deep end of the pool to dive into this project. Give me a call and I'll step you through it.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.comHeinz Wittenbecher wrote:

 

Heinz;

DO NOT USE SILL(Y)ICONE SEALER ON YOUR COACH WINDOWS!

Sorry about yelling but silicone is not meant for that. Get some 3M products that are made for glass sealing. They make all sorts of urethane sealers that go on with a caulking gun, some sealing caulk that is pliable and sold in strips that you can apply by hand and stays soft and pliable. These materials are meant for auto glass and are great. They can be purchased at most auto paint dealers. They come in multiple colors and some can be painted. 3M products cost more but you will not have to redo the job in a few years or try to find that leak you thought you had fixed.

I just removed my front side windows and redid everything. They were not bad to remove but be careful with the glass. The frames on wine came apart reasonably well except for two broke screws in the aluminum extrusions. If you take them apart use some WD or similar on the screws first and let it sit. Also to prevent stripping get some screw grabber compound from Sears. A drop or two on the driver really grabs the head well and will prevent you from stripping the screw.

If you want some further tips give me a call.

Marcus

 

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 11:45:07 -0400

From: "Ralph D. Edelbach" <edelbach#tcnj.edu>

Subject: GMC: Windshield covers??

I'm getting ready to buy a set of covers to go over the outside of the windshield of my coach. Any suggestions for a good, reliable vendor or other thoughts to share? Snaps, velcro or twist-locks?

The ones I've seen have a 85% sunblock level. Is that sufficient for daytime? What about being able to see through them from the outside at night? I suppose the interior curtains can be used if we don't want any univited, non-paying spectators! Thanks for the info.

Ralph Edelbach, '74 Glacier

-----------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:37:03 -0400

From: "Bartz, Paul" <s9d3452#mail.drms.dla.mil>

Subject: RE: GMC: Windshield covers??

Arch:

I got the same one for the windshield about four years ago and opted for snaps also. They included the Velcro, but it would look like a sore thumb since the Velcro patches are about 2" square. Found I didn't need the rear window cover, so sent it back.

Besides the privacy aspect, the front cover drastically reduces the solar heat gain. Don't see how anyone puts up with the heat gain otherwise? Even the birds like it for you know what!

Paul Bartz

> Ralph

>

> Can't tell you how long they will last. I just got mine today from The RV Toy Store. I ordered them about a week ago. The front one covers the side windows. The lady even asked me if I planned to put on windwings. I told her maybe----she said they would be glad to do them so I could add windwings later if I wanted to. No Charge--so I did. Total charge for both front and rear plus shipping was $216.50---they threw in 2 wiper blade covers too.

> The main reason I went with them was their snaps are stainless steel not chromed steel which will rust. I like snaps---In cold weather twists can freeze. In the rain I can do a jerk-and-run with snaps. Velcro has a way of collecting everything around it. Once the hooks on velcro collect a lot of stuff the don't hold as well. I can't tell you a lot more yet UPS just delivered them 1/2 hour ago.

>

> Take Care

> Arch

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 13:46:58 -0500

From: "Chuck Blanford" <Chuck.Blanford#lpcorp.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Windshield covers??

Arch

Do you have a phone number for the RV Toy Store, and item number for the windshield cover?

Thanks

Chuck

 

Chuck

1-800-334-5533 The item # is listed GMC 76 wind color white snaps

Sorry that's what it says under item #

Take Care

Arch

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 23:59:44 -0500 (CDT)

From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com

Subject: GMC: Window Tinting

A number of folks have e-mailed me asking for information on distributors of the 3M high performance window tinting film I mentioned in an earlier post.

The bronze window tint material RE20BRARL provides a 46% reduction in heat transfer due to sunlight. Most professional installers would call this a medium tint, and it can not be applied to the front windows on either side in some states (such as California). A lower density material is approved for the two front windows: RE35BRARL.

I have found a dealer who is willing to sell me tinting material in large quantity at a discount. If there is enough interest I am willing to aggregate orders to purchase tinting in 100 foot rolls, cut it into sections and send smaller pieces to those who order it.

I plan on ordering the tinting in a 40 inch width that should handle the largest windows in the GMC (the back). The maximum that I measured on my coach was a 32 inch height, so there's plenty of room for excess on the one side. It takes about 24 feet of the medium tint and 3 feet of the light tint to complete my Palm Beach. I think that I can buy the film for $6.00 per linear foot - including taxes, you pay shipping from my offices to your location.

If anyone is interested, measure your windows to verify the amount that you would need and let me know. If I can get enough people to order, I'll buy in bulk and split it up. If not, I'll see if the dealer can put together some packages (probably at a higher price) to do the GMC.

BTW, the quotes that I've received from installers for the same tinting is over $600 for the GMC using the high efficiency film. Any other quotes out there?

Please let me know by private e-mail if you are interested in buying tint for your GMC. I think that the cost will be about $170 for the materials plus shipping. The dealer said that they will provide me with detailed installation instructions. The basic set that they sent me is simple.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

 

Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 22:11:54 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Tinting

Henry,

I think it a very good gesture purchasing the 40" roll of film and dividing it up for interested parties. I have owned several tinting businesses, one under the "Sears" concession network carrying 3M brand film and can attest the merits of window tint. The reflective film you refer to is primarily designed to block heat by reflecting it off the glass as opposed to filtering and absorbing the heat as colored filter film does.

A 100ft. roll of 40" reflective film seems a bit high at $600.00 though. I was a 3M franchised dealer and realize you must pay more if you want the 3M logo on the box. I actually closed out my franchise when the 3M film topped 100% more than other premium brands of film.

The color on the side windows of the GMC, excluding the "A" frame, has a 35% rating. My experience tinting GMC's is that another layer of 35% on those windows will equal the darkness of a 20% film on the "A" frame glass which is pretty much clear. 20% film coupled with the 35% color already in the side glass ends up a bit dark and you do not need it dark to reject the heat. In most states, motorhomes can have 20% on the side windows. The tint rule is primarily directed at cars and trucks and most have a loop hole for vehicles such as limos, motorhomes & trailers.

Have you looked into pricing of other premium brands of film. From my local supplier, if I remember correctly, I pay # $350.00 for a similar roll of metalised scratch resistant film, I will check my files tomorrow at the shop.

I've heard all the quality stories of 3M, actually I was one of the ones touting them. I will tell you though from being in the business that 3M film is a bit overrated with regard to other good films that are available. Also, the bronze film you referred to leaves the windows with a sort of brown color. I would suggest a neutral colored film which leaves the glass with a leaded crystal color. With the 35% smoke color of the side windows, the neutral film seems to match better.

Access to the film is not really even half the battle, the most expensive film in the world will not look good and last unless it is properly installed!

Our windows are mostly flat except for the "A" frame which have a bit of a compound curve. Even though, I would not suggest attempting installation without a good tinting lesson. Tint acts kind of like wall paper, you must pattern the pieces in a certain sequence, clean the surface and stick the film exactly right then squeegy out the water from the center out. Sounds easy right? I wish that were so. After a couple of frustrating tries, many people end up with a pile of wrinkled film all stuck together making up new words for their feeling toward the tinting!

If you still want to purchase the 3M film, I would be happy to share installation techniques with the group, I would suggest though, investigating other brands of film.

If enough people would like, I would be happy to do a hands on seminar at the Marion Rally on tinting techniques. Anyone interested, please let me know soon and I'll call Ralph to try and set it up. If you pick up the 3M film now, hang onto it until then. By the way, do not pinch or roll up the film too tight, that could damage the film at the very least make it a ----- to install.

If you decide to look at other films, let me know and I'll price 100' rolls of 40" film for you here.

Sorry, I didn't chime in before now on this subject, but I missed the Emails. I guess I fell into the trap of only looking at subjects I was working with. I would be happy to help you with this project.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

 

Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 23:38:48 -0500 (CDT)

From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Tinting

That's why I like the bronze. At least in the 3M line it has the best heat rejection of any of their films at the same opacity. (it's better by about 50% as compared to the smoke) The price includes tax (which I pay since I'm not a reseller in Calif.), shipping to me, packaging materials and a small allowance for waste. I received a new quote from the distributor today for $459.55 per 100' roll of the low e film. Shipping gets tacked on top of that. Also, the distributor seems willing to sell smaller lots to individuals, but I don't have a price yet. That would allow people who want a specific color for which we can't get enough interest to still consider doing the tinting themselves.

I'm always open to alternatives. I don't have the technical details on other films. If you have some, I'd love to get copies.

What sort of price range did you charge (or would you charge) to tint a GMC?

>Have you looked into pricing of other premium brands of film.

When I had my daughter's car tinted I looked at a large number of film samples at a number of tint shops. I selected the bronze because it was superior in heat rejection by a good margin. I mentioned this film here on the list and a number of people asked for more information. That's why I offered to get some bulk rolls.

Great! I'm always interested in saving some money providing that the material does the same job. In the dozens of films that I looked at the 3M stood out by a wide margin for heat rejection. Since that was my primary goal the decision was easy.

I personally don't find the very slight brown tint to be objectionable. But then I am partially color blind. My wife who is not color blind likes the tint. Guess it's a matter of personal preference and coach color scheme.

I would suggest a neutral colored film which leaves the glass with a leaded crystal color. With the 35% smoke color of the side windows, the neutral film seems to match better.

>

> Access to the film is not really even half the battle, the most expensive film in the world will not look good and last unless it is properly installed!

That's another story! I've done small tints, but nothing as large as the back window of the GMC. The distributor who will sell the 3M material says that they will provide complete installation instructions. But, as you say, doing and watching/reading are two different things.

The numbers that I posted are a bit pessimistic so that I think there'll be some extra to experiment with first.

Any suggested brands?

Would you mind? I don't have any particular brand loyalty, but would like to get a good performing tint for heat rejection.

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting

 

Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 05:27:06 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Window Tint

For those that were interested, I am purchasing a 40"x 100ft. roll of metalised film today to install tint in a coach I am restoring.

If you would like some, give me a call. The film cost is $3.70 a running foot. This film uses no dye that causes fading.

This company explained that any colored film, such as bronze, used a dye to color it and would be susseptable to fade. This is a premium grade, scratch resistant film and I feel will do the job of reducing heat in the coach. It is a 32% darkness which means it would not be dark when put on the side windows.

If I can help further, please give me a call. 1-877-275-4462

Jim Bounds ww.gmccoop.com

 

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:14:15 -0500 (CDT)

From: hdavis#ix.netcom.com

Subject: Window Tint Source

Last week I offered to buy window tinting in bulk and redistribute to anyone who was interested. Since we haven't been able to make up enough of an order to buy in roll quantity, here's a distributor who will sell you the amount that you want, in the color that you chose:

A-Design Energy Control

(310) 540-6399 phone

(310) 540-4448 fax

or you can go to their web site:

http://sbol.com/adec/

I have NOT purchased from them - caveat emptor.

Henry

 

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:45:15 -0700

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds#sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Tint Source

Henry,

As I said in previous posts, having the film is one thing, getting it on the windows is another. If anyone would like to tackle the job, I would be happy to offer some install tips. Filming your windows really does help heat management, especially with as much glass as we have! Let me know if I can help.

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

 

a. Are your side windows (including the sliders and above) and rear window tinted? If not, you are getting a tremendous heat gain through them. You should consider installing a dark, REFLECTIVE, I repeat reflective type , tinting film installed on them to reject the solar heat gain and lower the workload on your roof A/C unit.

 

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 23:07:51 +0100

From: "Donald W. Miller" <millerdw#vaix2.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: redoing interior

A good window tint is 3m Scotchtint Plus All Season. Amber (LE35AMARL) is advertised to reduce summer heat gain by 73% and winter heat loss by 30%. It is a construction material rather than automotive.

Our boat got a similar insulation treatment several years ago and became much more comfortable in both summer and winter. In that instance the improvement was easily worth the time and effort as we cruise in all seasons.

 

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 23:45:05 -0400

From: "robteed" <robteed#netimation.com>

Subject: Re:GMC: Window Track Felt???

OK, I know this has been asked before.... I need the Window track stuff ( Felt In Think ). My old windows had metal spring looking stuff???

I need enough for cab windows, Two Living area windows ( Large ) and Two bedroom Windows (small). Also, I'm trying to stop leaks...Pulled one of the bedroom windows out. Tried putting waterproof weather strip (Stuff used for Pickup bed liners) on then reinstalled the window. The screws on the window retaining bracket striped out before the window got a tight seal....Should I use bigger diameter screws???? I thought about silly-cone, but I think its too hard to remove windows after that. I need a paint job in the spring so thinking ahead. I pulled one of the metal drip edges off the exterior seam. What a mess! The foam had disintegrated. I broke a screw off. Do I remove it or just put one beside it? What was the material used on that seam. Looked alot like bondo ...Was really pliable.

Thanks,

Rob Teed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 00:38:41 -0400

From: "Steven A. Smith" <StevenASmith#compuserve.com>

Subject: GMC: FW: Window Track Felt???

- -----Original Message-----

Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 9:16 PM

Subject: RE: GMC: Window Track Felt???

Rob,

The window felt can be purchased at Cinnabar Engineering (800-720-2227) or Gateway (800-654-0374). I don't know about the Gateway stuff, but the Cinnabar is a rubber type felt, w/o the spiral liner. I'm happy with it.

Windows: you might try a helicoil insert to repair the stripped hole. You should be able to get a set at any good hardware store. I've never been into a side window frame, etc. but if they use machine screws, then a helicoil insert should work.

Sealant: I wouldn't recommend silicone on anything. The stuff ought to be banned from the face of the earth. Use it and you will be have it lifting at the surface inside a year. I use 3M brand 5200 marine adhesive sealant. It is a urethane sealant and will last forever and will stick forever to anything. (Yes - this is a plug for 3M - they supported my family for 35+ years) It is a moisture cure, so in dry areas (like Phoenix) it will take days to fully cure. In Texas, a day will do it. But then, behind a window, you may not care. My only worry has been to keep the bugs/dust out of it while it dries. A boat shop should carry it if you can't get it at Lowe's or Home Depot. I paid about $10.00 a tube. A warning - if you use this - the seal will last forever but if you ever need to get the window frame out again, you will tear it up or have to cut it out! I can 't imagine why you might ever need to do that, but just in case. Perhaps you may want to use it when/if you take out the windows for painting the coach.

Good luck,

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:48:46 EDT

From: Gcbr#aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Water Leaks

In a message dated 98-09-21 07:45:42 EDT, you write:

<<

3) Any recomendations on chauking to use to seal up water leaks?

4) Any sugestions for other things I should do while I have it stripped down this far.

>>

Ed

I am using a caulk called C-10 It is one of the new hyplon rubber caulks. I have had very good luck with it for 2 years on my other motorhome. I would also make a suggestion here. I was chasing phantom leaks that I could not find. It turned out not to be a need of caulking at all. It was where the window is sealed to the window frame. The old black tar like substance just was not cutting it. Every window on my coach had areas that had pulled away from the frame. Two of my windows had about a pound of silly-cone on them. Finally gave up and took out all of the windows. Put them back in with 3M Windo-Weld. I pitty the next person who wants to take out the windows. That stuff hardens up and really holds the glass. Another thing I found was some one had replaced the track on the big drivers side window over the couch. When they did they did not cut the drain slots in the track. It would just fill and run in.

Hope this helps. And yes Patrick has the pics.

Take Care

Arch

 

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 10:29:59 -0500

From: "Hatter, Ed" <EHatter#utilicorp.com>

Subject: GMC: Window Seals

I found some water leaks in the last couple of rain storms while working on the inside of the coach. The motorhome has sit with the right side facing south for twenty years and the rain appears to be leaking around the window frames on that side. I have the trim molding taken off. What do I use to seal the windows around the frame and the felt around the glass?

Ed Hatter

73 260 GMC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 11:46:54 -0400

From: "Bartz, Paul" <s9d3452#mail.drms.dla.mil>

Subject: RE: GMC: Window Seals

Ed:

Last year I replaced my windows and used a soft, black butyl type sealant tape that I purchased at a local RV dealer. It is approximately 3/4s of an inch wide and an 1/8 of an inch thick. It was <$4 per roll. It has a crinkle release paper on one side to prevent sticking when rolled up. You apply it by hand to the inside perimeter of the window frame prior to setting the window in place. I found that wiping water with your finger onto the tape just prior to setting the window in place helps in the installation, as gravity and movement of the window allow the tape to droop sometimes. As you tighten the window in place, the tape will extrude out from under the frame. Just trim it off later with a plastic knife. It will continue extruding slightly for a few months afterward. Just keep trimming it.

Paul Bartz

 

From: Hatter, Ed [mailto:EHatter#utilicorp.com]

Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 11:30 AM

Subject: GMC: Window Seals

I found some water leaks in the last couple of rain storms while working on the inside of the coach. The motorhome has sit with the right side facing south for twenty years and the rain appears to be leaking around the window frames on that side. I have the trim molding taken off. What do I use to seal the windows around the frame and the felt around the glass?

Ed Hatter

73 260 GMC

 

Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 09:23:22 -0700

From: "Mike Finnicum" <songtekpub#msn.com>

Subject: GMC: Window Track Felt at $2

Alex lists both rubber and felt at his site. You will need to email or call to verify what is in stock. It is listed at $2 per foot.

Look at the bottom of this page

http://gmcmh.com/trim.htm

Mike Finnicum

78 GMC Eleganza II

Naples, FL

 

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 21:30:50 EDT

From: Gcbr#aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Window Seals

Ed

Take the windows out of the frames. Keep an eye out for the little spacers around the windows-------they look like 3 inch piece of # 14 wire with insulation on them. They are just solid plastic. Take the rubber out of the out side of the window. Then you can take out the glass. Clean all of the old nasty black goo from around the frame of the stationary glass. DO NOT throw it on the ground. If any fall finds it and pick it up. If you don't it will get on the sole of your shoes and you will track it everywhere. Now what to put the glass back with. Jim likes butyl rubber tape you can get at most auto body supply places or glass suppliers. I DONT like butyl. I used a new product called 3M Windo-Weld super fast Urethane part # 08609. The stuff gets stiff in about 20 min. Once the glass is in place it will stay there. I put the spacers back in. Having done this I am not sure I needed to. My old glass had shifted and all but the 2 fixed windows in the door and galley leaked. Most had lots of silly-cone all over them. The old glass was very easy to get out-------just pushed on it. It was scary how easily it came out. I pity the next guy who tries to take them out. I could not budge them with all my might. My local body man tells me you put a piece of piano wire between the frame and window and cut them out. I don't think they will move on me anymore.

BTW Patrick has the PICS of all this.

Take Care

Arch

 

Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 16:46:33 -0700

From: Gary Miller <grizzly#harborside.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: '77 Royale w Side Bath

Arch-

What is this "sliding window kit"? Could you describe it for me and what does it replace???

Gary '77 Kingsley Oregon Coast

 

Gary

The sliding window kit has everything you need to rebuild the sliding windows on the drivers side and passenger side. It has replacement felt for top bottom and front. Even has a piece of fuzzy stuff for the divider bar. Jim also includes for free two new screws for the catches. It cost me $23 including shipping. The nice thing is the felt is housed in a piece of rubber instead of the old metal track. Should not rust the way the old stuff did. There was enough felt rubber track that I replaced the broken piece of plastic fill strip on the inside of the window. Still had 3 inches left over. Patrick has the PICS and story of rebuild.

Take Care

Arch

 

Subject: GMC: Window coverings

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 08:16:31 PST

I know you guys are really into higher testosterone level stuff like tires, headers, engine boosters, etc. but I need some help in the furnishings department. Perhaps you could consult with your "other halfs". Someone hung some cheap plastic "mini-blinds" in our coach and I'm determined to replace them with pleated shades. Camping World has the type which operate on tension strings so the bottom of the shade doesn't flop around. I'm looking for other options or more specifically other suppliers (i.e better price). We are leaving for Phoenix in a couple of weeks and need to order something soon. Thanks for your input.

Diane Skinner

Also Web-footed in Washington!

 

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:07:23 -0500 (EST)

From: "Thomas G. Warner" <warner@borg.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Window coverings

Guske Sales and Service sell them specifically for the GMC motorhome. Run by a woman. 810-987-5788. This was answered by my male feminine side. Now back to tools etc.

 

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:36:19 -0800

From: Gary Miller <grizzly@harborside.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Window coverings

Terry..

I just finished installing "day-night" pleated shedes from Guske sales. I'm very happy with the results; the first portion of the shade is semi transparent for cutting down on the sunlight, the second portion of the shade is opaque for night time. They slide up and down on strings attached to the coach on each side and stay in place with a tension bar.The strings keep the blinds next to the windows which slope outward on the GMC. It is a considerable job to install blinds since the cabinets must be removed before installation and a curving filler needs to be installed over the rear window to provide a flat surface for the blind. But once done, they are NICE. (Same shades as found in Camping World but less $$$ and Guske knows exactly the sizes for our coaches). Cost about $500 for all the shades except the front drape.

Gary

'77 Kingsley

North Bend, Oregon Coast

------------------------------

 

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:17:08 -0500

From: davegreenberg1@juno.com

Subject: Re: GMC: Window coverings

Try any WalMart or KMart. You may get lucky and find dimensions near to what you need. They don't have to be exact if you use valances which you will have to do to keep the blinds up against the window.

I have had them for the past 5 years and I wouldn't go that route again. I find the strings wear thru and the blinds can only be repaired by taking down the cabinets and some of the valances. The stringing is complicated.

Next time I would go with the accordian type or Z blinds. My Opinion.

Dave Greenberg

 

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 09:23:21 -0800 (PST)

From: Chuck Botts <g_cbotts@qualcomm.com>

Subject: GMC: Window coverings

What is the best window covering depends on your life style. We had a SOB for 9 years that we replaced its thermo drapes with 1" plastic venetian blinds. We took them out and washed them many times a year and replaced them once because plastic tends to bend if then are kept in the full open position. We learned to always have them partially closed when we traveled. We also stretched the venetian blinds so that they did not rattle and swing around when we were under way.

We gutted and converted a 23' and the professional doing the job talked us into pleated blinds like he had. It turns out that his life style is to never open the windows and always have the AC/heater on. He has no screens. We added screens so we could open our windows. Dust is a major problem with open windows.

After traveling our first 9000 miles in our GMC this summer, we are changing out the new plated blinds and going to Micro-mini .008" thick Al venetian blinds. Our life style is to have the windows open when we park rather than the being closed up with the AC/heater on. The Venetian blind allows the window to be open so the breeze comes through and have the blind

tilted for visual privacy. It also allows us to have the blinds tilted slightly open when we travel so we can see out the window, yet prevents the direct sun from coming in the coach. Our windows have dark limo gray tint so heat is cut way down. Since the GMC windows are curved, the venetian binds rest on the surface of window box, which is covered with matching cloth. I was told by both Golby Motors and Jim Bounds that noise is not a problem because gravity has the blinds resting on the material and they don't rattle. We'll see. If they do, well have to stretch them rather than gravity holding them in contact.

If someone wants a complete set of like new almond plated blinds for a 23' they are coming out this month. They are very nice, but they don't fit our lifestyle.

Chuck Botts, g_cbotts@qualcomm.com

 

> Diane.

> Call Guske Sales at 810-987-5788. Looked at window covering at Marion last year. They sell >a good product and also up grade track for front windshield. This could be done by any one a >little handy.................Frank SW Indiana

>

In a message dated 2/10/99 1:52:36 PM, grizzly@harborside.com writes:

I used Hunter Douglas 3/4" pleat honeycomb shades. These have an insulating pocket in them. They also make 3/8" honeycomb and pleated shades. They all have a lifetime warranty. We used the continuous cord called Easyglide. In order to fit them I moved the cabinets out 3/4" by adding a 3/4x3/4 board to the back of the cupboards onto the existing piece of wood which the wall screws go through. I added another piece of wood at the top of the cupboard and drilled new holes 3/4" back from the existing holes. This gave the clearance I needed.

I fashioned valances from polycarbonate plastic angles which are 1" x 1".. I bought them at Home Base for about $8 for a 8' piece. I fashioned brackets at the top, center and bottom. The shades hug the wall and slide up and down in the clear plastic. The ones on the door keep the shade from swinging.

We do quite a bit of cold weather camping so we really notice the difference when the insulated shades are down.

Emery Stora

77 Kingsley

Santa Fe, NM

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:00:39 -0800

From: Gary Miller <grizzly@harborside.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: Day/nighter blinds

The Day-Night shades have three (3) positions. Night position (full down with no light showing through), Day position (half-way with night portion fully up but translucent day portion still down), and full up which gives you a fully clear window. With the Day position on the rear

window, you can detect bright lights at night but I would call the rear view "blind". If you want to see out the back you have to pull everything all the way up. BTW, installation of the rear blind will require you to make a curved filler to go horizontally across the top of the window; you mounts the blind to this filler. I used a piece of 1x, shaped it to fit the curve of the rear, and screwed it into place using some small angles. Still waiting for my wife to make a valance to cover it but I think it will look real nice.

Gary

'77 Kingsley

North Bend, Oregon Coast

Homebase@atcon.com wrote:

> Good Day All

> Today's dumb question goes as follows: When a day/nighter blind is in the rear window and >the driver looks in the rear view mirror, can he/she see what is outside the window while >driving. Naturally, we shall assume the blind is in the Day position. :) You might also assume >that I do not have these blinds in the coach at the moment.....

>

> Mike Beaton ' 77 Kingsley

> Nova Scotia

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:07:57 -0700

From: "mr.c" <mr.c@twrol.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: BLINDS, PLEATED SHADES or DRAPES?

I did not use a valance as she sent me all I needed. You do need to take out the cabinets and most of the new hardware will install where the old one was. At least you can find where the real aluminum braces were when you had the old blinds up. In front, I bought a set of curtains that go around the front. They are pleated and work good, but over time, the pleats need some help

folding.

Al Chernoff

77 Eleganza II

Richard Waters wrote:

> Thanks for the reply. I've talked with Margaret Guske and she seemed nice.

> She sent me a bunch of samples and other information.

>

> How about a valance? My brother has the day night shades in his big Winnebago and they fit into a valance all around the window. What did you do?

>

> Thanks,

> Richard 76 Palm Beach.

>

> "mr.c" wrote:

>

> > I went with Guske shades, and they really took good care of me. They are day/night shades with a lighter and darker half. She advertises in the GMCMM magazine.

> > Al Chernoff

> > 77 Eleganza II

> >

> > Richard Waters wrote:

> >

> > > The drapes in our 1976 Palm Beach are a bit shabby now. It looks like we can replace them with mini blinds, new drapes or those Day-Night Pleated Shades.

> > >

> > > Can anyone give me any recommendations on what to do?

> > >

> > > Thanks,

> > >

> > > Richard Waters

> > > 1976 Palm Beach

------------------------------

 

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:36:23 -0800

From: Henry Davis <hdavis@ix.netcom.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: BLINDS, PLEATED SHADES or DRAPES?

At 06:07 PM 2/10/99 -0700, you wrote:

>They are pleated and work good, but over time, the pleats need some help folding.

I talked to a woman locally who runs a shade and blind company about the pleated shades. She said that the pleated shades can be renewed by misting them lightly with water and then putting them in the closed position for "a while." She said not to let them stay damp for too long or they would mold/mildew.

I haven't tried it as I don't have the shades (yet?).

Henry

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 12:40:04 EST

From: Gcbr@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Richard

I never did find a replacement for mine. SO---for the ones that were cracked I fiberglassed a patch on the back side. I used a fiberglass kit I got from Lowes that is for patching plastic tubs and sinks. No, I dont know the number. Did the same for holes on the backside. On the front side I filled in the holes with an epoxy I got from Lowe's that is made for patching holes and cracks in plastic sinks ect. Then I dyed them with Plasti Kote Vinyl Dye. They are now white as snow. They do make several colors. Even after all that there were the ones the mice had chewed ect. All of the real bad pieces went on top so a cabinet would hide them. The other problem I had was several pieces that had the back snap rail broken off. Yeah some of you guessed it I bet. I shot that puppy full of silly-cone and stuckem up. I dont want to take them down again because they are stuck real good. Thats what I did.

Take Care

Arch

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 12:15:03 -0600

From: Billy Massey <bmassey@web-access.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

I just called .... Dale Anderson 815-485-2462 is parting out GMC's [GMC Motorhome Preservation] ... about the trim around my door window. He said that he has all 8 pieces and that he'll take $80 for the set.

hmmm, on second thought, it don't look that hard to just whittle out some pieces of .035 aluminum and paint em white. I'll put that on my list.

Hope this helps

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:22:39 EST

From: EMERYSTORA@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: BLINDS, PLEATED SHADES or DRAPES?

In a message dated 2/11/99 9:26:22 AM, rguthart@frii.com writes:

<< The "polycarbonate plastic angles" that you used to construct valances - what exactly are these? Cross-section like this... L ? >>

Yes, they are a right angle. I mounted one piece on each side of the window. They are clear. HomeBase carried two types, a styrene and a polycarbonate. Be sure to get the more expensive polycarbonate ones as that type of plastic is extremely strong. They make plastic eyeglass lenses out of polycarb. The angles are designed to be used at the corners of plaster or sheetrock by doors to prevent the edges from being chipped or broken by people carrying things through doorways or by rug rats or yard monkeys running their tricycle into the edge. I used three steel angles 1" by 1" to fasten each side, drilled a hole in the plastic at the attaching point and used a small screw and nut to fasten them in place. On the face of the door and window frames I used

stainless steel sheet metal screws. The plastic is flexible enough to curve to match the side walls. Be sure to mount them far enough out to clear the rubber trim around the window and door.

Emery Stora

77 Kingsley

Santa Fe, NM

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 16:16:22 EST

From: CHill113@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Arch, I'm having a problem identifying which window trim strip you guys are talking about! My 77PB has a white rubber gasket that fits around the inside and that's all the plastic I see, except of course, the 3 or 4 inch wide trim strip that runs along the top of the windows where they join the ceiling. If you are talking about this, I learned that Crown Molding from the lumber yard is a good replacement. It is already beveled on the back and can be stained, varnished, or painted.

Justin

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 17:18:30 EST

From: Gcbr@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Justin

You dont understand because you got one of those new fancy models that does not have window trim.<g> Just kidding I am no expert on this but I think they changed over sometime in 76.

Some of use with the older models have a piece of 2 inch wide plastic That turns yellow and cracks. There are also 4 corners to deal with. They snap on when new. Just snap when they get

old.

Take Care

Arch Rain thunder now Tornado watch

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:14:29 -0800

From: Phil Stewart <plstewrt@bellsouth.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Richard,

I bought from Cinnabar several of the plastic window tirm pieces you are missing. They had the corners and the straight runs last year. Although not inexpensive, the parts were new and I colored them with vinyl paint to match the ineterior of my coach. Hope this helps.

Phil Stewart

'76 Transmode, TN

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:03:42 -0500

From: "The Hamiltons" <hamilton@king.igs.net>

Subject: GMC: Pleated shades, Blinds

The door window shade available from Guske in GMCMM is specially made for the GMC and doesn't require valances to stay in place but we put some in to match the other windows. We filled a couple of small voids at the bottom of the window with wood also. It is an excellent fit without the additions we did.

Kathy & Al Hamilton

76 Eleganza II

Kingston, Ont

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:05:36 EST

From: CHill113@aol.com

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

I'm "shooting completely in the dark" on how your window trim is made on the pre-77 models. So I'll ask a stupid question, perhaps. Could you switch to the type of trim we have on the later models by cutting it out of 1/8 inch luan plywood and covering it with cloth or vinyl to match your decor?

Justin

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:54:27 -0800 (PST)

From: William Myers <wmyers442@yahoo.com>

Subject: RE: GMC: interior window trim

> ......Some of use with the older models have a piece of 2 inch wide plastic That turns yellow and cracks. There are also 4 corners ...

Sound like mine also on '74. I just purchased a long piece (bottom) and short piece (side) for the side window from Cinnabar using the P/N out of the Parts Manual.

Bill

'74 GL

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:35:58 -0600

From: Jon Bradford Peterson <mun01671@centuryinter.net>

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

My GMC has wood for trim around the windows. You can have them made at a custom cabinet shop then stain or paint the wood.

Brad Peterson

73 GMC

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:49:24 -0500 (EST)

From: DnGMissett@webtv.net (RICHARD MISSETT)

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Richard

I had good results cleaning up those trim mouldings using a combination of Wesleys Bleach White (Whitewall tire cleaner) Comet Cleanser & Steele Wool soap pads.

The few pieces that didn't clean up well I reinstalled on top of the windows, behind the cabinets.

Dick Missett

73 ex-Sequoia

Wyoming, PA

 

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 12:32:33 -0500

From: Jim Bounds <jimbounds@sprintmail.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Richard,

Look at my web site at the interior pics of the 75 Transmode I did. I used a bulb seal edge trim that I think looks pretty good. It also does a good job of cutting down on the wind noise at the entry door! Let me know if I can help,

Jim Bounds

 

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 11:12:30 -0700

From: "Richard Guthart" <rguthart@frii.com>

Subject: Re: GMC: interior window trim

Jim,

1. Is this the pic that you mean?

http://www.gmccoop.com/images/whatsn4.gif I agree, it does look good.

2. What's a "bulb seal edge trim"?

Thanks,

Richard

 

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 14:12:20 -0500

From: "Bartz, Paul" <s9d3452@mail.drms.dla.mil>

Subject: RE: GMC: Window coverings

Terry:

One aspect not discussed so far in this issue is the depth of the shade/blind. In my case, I found a Levelor Mistro line, which has a top and bottom rail that is just over 1" deep. Minimizing the shade/blind depth, limits its intrusion on the coach interior and depending on the proximity of your overhead cabinets to the coach side walls, allow you to mount it to a header behind the cabinet.

In my case, I constructed and mounted L-shaped left and right valences, on either side of the shades (which were custom ordered to my dimensions), that have both the rear and front edges conforming to the coach side wall curvature. The shade runs up and down constrained by the front of the valence. This eliminates another common troublesome mounting method using string or cord to restrain the shade.

I've routinely had the shades in the down position, in fact they're that way the majority of the time, and don't find that they lose their "accordion" memory.

I purchased the shades via mail order, after looking at a sample shade provided at no cost, from Cincinnati Window Shade Co, (http://www.cincishade.com) run by Jim, who was patient and provided the best customer service I could expect. I highly recommend them.

Paul Bartz

 

From: Gary Miller [mailto:grizzly@harborside.com]

Sent: Monday, January 11, 1999 2:36 PM

Subject: Re: GMC: Window coverings

Terry.

I just finished installing "day-night" pleated shades from Guske sales. I'm very happy with the results; the first portion of the shade is semi transparent for cutting down on the sunlight, the second portion of the shade is opaque for night time. They slide up and down on strings attached to the coach on each side and stay in place with a tension bar. The strings keep the blinds next to the windows which slope outward on the GMC. It is a considerable job to install blinds since the cabinets must be removed before installation and a curving filler needs to be installed over the rear window to provide a flat surface for the blind. But once done, they are NICE.

(Same shades as found in Camping World but less $$$ and Guske knows exactly the sizes for our coaches). Cost about $500 for all the shades except the front drape.